Paraje Altamira IG

Paraje Altamira is the oldest of the four IGs inside San Carlos. The INV recognised it on 6 December 2013 (Resolution C.44/2013, published 13 January 2014) at the request of Bodegas Chandon, La Agrícola and Bodegas Esmeralda. Several other firms objected that the area was too big, and the INV rejected the objection while leaving the door open for new studies. The area was extended in 2017 (Resolution 82-E/2017). Los Andes reported about 4,500 hectares in the first delimitation and about 9,300 after the extension, and World of Fine Wine puts the vines in the IG at close to 2,800 hectares.

The soils are the story. The river dropped granite boulders here, and they are coated in calcium carbonate. Zuccardi says the stones sit at different depths within a few metres of each other. Its Piedra Infinita vineyard has 35.7 planted hectares split into 47 parcels, from very shallow soil over a limestone layer to more than 150 centimetres of silty loam. Altos Las Hormigas reports that limestone-covered pebbles and gravels make up 85% of the soil volume at its site. Altitude is quoted differently depending on who you ask: the resolution's 1,000 metre contour, Zuccardi's 1,050 to 1,150 metres and Altos Las Hormigas's 1,200 metres.

Achával Ferrer's Finca Altamira, first made in 1999, is the wine World of Fine Wine credits with building the name. Zuccardi farms three vineyards here (Piedra Infinita, Canal Uco and Los Membrillos), and Altos Las Hormigas, Laura Catena's Luca label, Teho and the small growers' group PIPA are others. Vines in the area go back to the early 1900s. When I taste an Altamira Malbec I'll be looking for that chalky grip, with enough freshness to carry it.